Just 150 km from Paris, here's a corner of unspoilt nature. With its chic countryside, primeval forests and exceptional heritage, the Perche nature park welcomes motorhomers looking for peace and quiet and authenticity. Here are a few ideas for discovering this extraordinary region!
The Perche, that little corner of Normandy...
We're talking about a small corner of Normandy (and the Pays de Loire, to a lesser extent), north of Le Mans and west of Chartres, but the inhabitants call themselves ‘Percherons’, not Normans!
Before our motorhome trip to this ancient county of France, we have to confess that we didn't even know it existed.
The Percheron horse, emblem of Perche
But we don't think we're the only ones. If you say you're going to spend a few days in the Perche region, chances are your interviewers will be taken aback...
On the other hand, mention ‘the Percheron’, and they will immediately conjure up the image of this robust equine with its dapple-grey coat! But our adventure would show us that there was much more to Perche than that...
I recognise the Perche region by the wealth of its houses, its vigorous horses, its prosperous mills - it's my country...
Philosopher Alain, a native of Mortagne-au-Perche
La Ferté Vidame, at the gateway to the Parc Naturel du Perche
Our adventure begins at the gateway to the Parc Naturel du Perche. The ruins of the Château de la Ferté-Vidame, partly destroyed during the French Revolution, give us a glimpse of the exceptional heritage that awaits us.
Citroën's centenary
Citroën's test tracks have been located on the Ferté Vidam site since 1938. In 2019, the brand will be celebrating its centenary here.
Go to Longny-au-Perche
The little houses with their brick-patterned doors and windows, the mills, the flowers on the balconies and the buccolic gardens immediately put you in the mood.
The Perche is a charming destination, where you can also spot sundials at the bend in the road, or look up and see a few weather vanes silhouetted against the roofs.
The area's chic country feel is partly due to the presence of ‘Parisians in a hurry’, who gradually moved into second homes before retiring and helping to revitalise the surrounding area.
At Le Mage, the trade of the weather vane maker is being rediscovered
Thierry Soret is one of the last weathervane makers in France. We stopped off at his workshop to discover a craft that was once widespread. He welcomes the curious by appointment.
📍 Nearby Service Areas
Longny-au-Perche
Camping Monaco Parc, Route de Montceau (17 euros with electricity and 9 euros per adult). Opposite, service area with 25 pitches (10 euros per 24 hours with electricity, draining service and water for 2 euros). GPS : 48.51508 / 0.7395
La Madeleine Bouvet
Pond-side car park. Picnic table, boules pitch and children's play area (2-12 years). Euro-Relais kiosk (€2 tokens for water and 60 minutes electricity) on sale at Casa Di Pinoccio (60 metres). GPS: 48.47084 / 0.90179
We're off on the Circuit des Manoirs du Perche
Manor houses are to Perche what châteaux are to the Loire! A legacy of the Hundred Years' War, these buildings, with their seigniorial dwellings and agricultural outbuildings, cover the region.
Departure from Nocé, at the Manoir de Courboyer
Departing from Nocé, we set off by motorhome on the 87km Manor Houses and Traditions Trail to the Manoir de Courboyer. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it is also the home of the Parc Naturel du Perche.
The route is one of 9 ‘Routes Tranquilles’ (quiet routes) in the Perche region, enabling you to discover the region's heritage by motorhome (see other routes at the end of this article).
The manor houses appear at the turn of a bushy bend, in the secret of the fields or on the edge of a wood. There are over a hundred of them left in the Perche. But not all of them can be visited.
Most of them are now private, but you can still get close to their exteriors.
The Manoir de Fresnaye in Saint-Germain de la Coudre
One of our favourites is also the oldest in the Perche. We were even able to visit it: the Manoir de Fresnaye, whose first foundations date back to the 14th century!
The estate, which had fallen into disrepair over the years due to neglect, has undergone a remarkable renovation since 1998, when the new owner took over.
📍 Nearby Service Areas
Saint Germain de la Coudre
A peaceful area close to the stadium, 12 km south of Bellême. 5 reserved parking spaces. Parking limited to 72 hours. Picnic area, children's play area, tennis court and multi-sports ground. Euro Relai terminal. (2 euros 60 minutes) GPS : 48.27911 / 0.60579
Manoir de la Gauberdière, la Rouge
We also pass by the Manoir de la Gauberdière, where Bénédicte Petit and Ariane Machie welcome us. After 19 years of restoration, they have restored this impressive building to its typical late 15th-century Gothic glory!
Among other things, they have redone the stone staircase in the tower and the roofs, and opened up the windows. At the time, people were taxed according to the number of windows they had... and the owners were quick to close the hatches!
They also restored the manor's ornamental sculptures, which had been destroyed by the Revolution and the passage of time, and restored the small neighbouring chapel.
But the highlight of the show is the incredible roof structure (double ridge and Saint Andrew's cross), which is so robust that it has stood the test of time!
Go to Bellême, the City of Blanche de Castille
Whether for their historical role or the instant charm they exert on visitors, three towns are must-sees in the Perche region: Bellême, La Perrière and Mortagne-au-Perche.
We're already on our way to Bellême, a small town marked by the epic story of Blanche de Castille.
French people's favourite village in 2017
The fortified town of Bellême is the pride of its inhabitants. In 2017, it was included in the list of French Favourite Villages, presented by Stéphane Bern.
An ancient fortified castle and flea markets
We took a stroll around the square of the old fortified castle and wandered around the village's many second-hand shops.
Then we took a ride on an electric scooter through the town and over the surrounding plains and hills. A fun way to discover the heritage of the Perche region.
Discover the area around Bellême on an electric scooter!
‘Trotti woods’, trottiwoods@orange.fr, +33 (0)6 47 86 88 57
Dinner and overnight in Bellême
After a bite to eat at Chez Cyril et Nathalie, which we'd been told was one of the best places in town, we spend the night at the Bellême campsite.
Bellême campsite, a good address right in the heart of the town
Ideally located below the fortifications, this is a family campsite just the way we like them. Next door is the open-air swimming pool, tennis court, golf course and footpaths.
Venturing into the state forest of Bellême
The forest is a remnant of the ancient forest of Perche (Sylva Pertica), which is said to have given its name to this ancient province of ‘Perche’.
We took a break at one of the many picnic tables available in various parts of the forest.
Cani-randoing in the Bellême forest
To discover the Bellême forest in a more sporting way, we also tried out an original activity recently introduced to the area: Cani-Rando!
Departing from Saint-Martin du Vieux Bellême, Yukon and Golni, two beautiful huskies, set the pace for the 10.5 km hike. We loved the experience, even if our legs remembered it the next day!
La Perrière, the most charming town in the Perche region
Set against the Bellême forest, La Perrière is a picturesque village of stone houses, which for a long time made its living from logging. But from the 19th century onwards, this little town of character became the capital of pearl netting.
When la Perrière's pearl net inspired designer Chantal Thomass
The designer Chantal Thomass even spent time in the hills above the village to rediscover this know-how, from which she drew inspiration for several of her collections in the 1990s.
Château d'Horbé, former home of Maison Charles Husset
It's great to stroll through the narrow streets to discover the secrets of the village and push open the doors of some unusual places and restaurants. Visitors often confuse the Maison d'Horbé with the Relai d'Horbé when they want to book a meal! Ouch!
Yet the two houses share only part of the name of the former Château d'Horbé, once occupied by the Charles Husset company, which made netting and embroidery.
Brocante-chic’ atmosphere at Maison d'Horbé
La Maison d'Horbé is a chic tearoom/brocante, a grocery shop and a restaurant where everything is homemade! We settled in for a meal in this chic and refined brocante atmosphere.
The atmosphere, the decoration, the products, the dishes, the wines. Everything was simply marvellous. And while the prices may seem high at first, they are unquestionably worthy of the products and the cuisine.
‘Just like home’ at Martin's Relai d'Horbé
There's a different atmosphere at Martin's, where you can dine on local cuisine (boudin aux pommes, impressive cheese platter).
The Relai is also a hotel, and the owner has 1001 anecdotes about the Perche region and the village. He also has an impressive collection of coffee machines! Martin is a real character, and a straight talker.
Two rooms, two atmospheres... We're not really surprised that it's not true love between neighbours!
Prieuré de Saint-Gauburge, Saint-Cyr-la-Rosière
The next stage of our tour takes us back on the trail of heritage. We start at the priory of Saint-Cyr-la-Rosière, founded in the early 11th century and dedicated to Sainte-Gauburge (or Walburge).
Since 1972, it has also been home to the Ecomuseum, which bears witness to the rural life of the Perche region.
Château de Lonné, Igé
Our next stop is the Château de Lonné, built in the Louis XIII (17th century) style and owned by the D'Orglande family since 1800. This magnificent building is a listed historic monument. Chateaubriand even walked its paths...
Visitors are free to explore the exterior and its 450 hectares of ‘Pro Sylva’ forest (minimal human intervention respecting ecosystems). The estate also includes a chapel, the farm and stables.
Open by appointment from 1 July to 30 September. 3 for adults, free for children under 16. Tel: 02 33 83 69 58
Notre Dame de Montligeon
A few kilometres away, in the middle of the Perche countryside, stands the 19th-century Sanctuary of Notre Dame de Montligeon.
This imposing neo-Gothic basilica (74 m long, 32 m wide, 32 m high) was built between 1896 and 1911. It took our breath away!
The specialities of Perche
Like any self-respecting region, the Perche also has its specialities, starting with Percheron cider, which has had its own PDO since 2019!
Percheron cider
There are a number of traditional, artisanal cider makers. We stopped off at Dominique and Nathalie's Cidrerie Bio l'Hermitière in Le Theil.
These two passionate producers have built their cider house in an ecological building. You can spend the night in the car park next to the orchards.
The Boudin of Mortagne-au-Perche
The second must-visit town is Mortagne. We discovered it for the first time during the weekly Saturday morning market (8am-1pm), which gives the town a real buzz.
This town of 4,300 inhabitants is best known for its great speciality: black pudding! You can find out all about it at the Boudin Fair, held every year in the 3rd week of March. Alternatively, try one of the five butchers in Mortagne town centre. There's even a sandwich version to take away, in a baguette with a little mustard.
We picked them up around the time of the grills at the ‘Roi du boudin’ on the corner of the market hall.
Thaurin's ice cream
For those with a sweet tooth, we have another good address to recommend in Mortagne: Gérard and Véronica Thaurin (Glace Art), who opened their ice cream parlour in 2018.
A great value, made with milk from local Normandy cows. The ice cream flavours are simply stunning... (you're welcome!).
The cloister of the Saint-François convent
One of Mortagne-au-Perche's little secrets is the cloister of the Convent of Saint-François, located on the site of the present-day hospital. It's incredible to find such a peaceful place in this location (Rue de l'Hospice)!
The people of Mortagne owe it to the benefactress Marguerite de Lorraine, Duchess of Alençon and Countess of Perche, who had the convent of Poor Clares and its adjoining chapel built in the 16th century. Superb!
A break at Saint-Langis-les-Mortagnes
Three kilometres from the centre of Mortagne, this campsite is a small haven of peace tucked away on a hill, a stone's throw from a small pond and the restaurant ‘Les Pieds dans l'eau’. We spent the night there.
It is free and has six pitches. Electricity is available at a charge of €2 for 60 minutes.
GPS coordinates: Latitude: 48.51831 / Longitude: 0.52916
The remarkable gardens of Perche
The botanical and floral gardens of Le Perche have forged a reputation for themselves. It's fascinating to see the passion with which the garden owners look after their estates.
We visited Le jardin du bois du puit in Belforêt-en-Perche, the gardens at Montperthuis in Chemilli and the grounds of Château de la Lorière in La Rouge, which have been awarded the ‘Jardins remarquables’ label.
A stroll through the Montperthuis gardens
Our favourite is the Montpertuis garden, entirely designed by Philippe Dubreuil (you should have seen the state of the land at the start!) around the 15th-century Manoir de la Pillardière.
Different influences intermingle, as do the many varieties of plants that bloom with the seasons.
The garden is dominated by rose bushes, while the orchard boasts some lovely Percheron apple trees. The ornamental sculptures add a charm that sets it apart from other Perche gardens.
Flying over Perche in a microlight
Our adventure over, we were dreaming of getting a bit of height to see the Perche's hedged farmland, its towns full of character, its forests and its manor houses!
We gave in to the temptation of flying over the Perche with Philippe, an aviation enthusiast and former paratrooper in the French Air Force, aboard the ‘U Ninja’ from Les Maisons Neuves, in Saint-Germain-de-la-Coudre. Not even afraid...
This is an unforgettable experience to round off your visit to the Perche and take you on the road home.
Admittedly, this type of activity isn't cheap, but if you've got a present to give or simply want to treat yourself, it's always a good idea to get laid!
We'll leave you with these wonderful landscapes and wish you all the best for your adventure in the Perche!
The ‘quiet roads’ of the Perche
- The Sites and Abbeys Trail, 108 km from Nogent-le-Rotrou;
- The Forests and Fine Homes Trail, 94 km from Senonches;
- The Manors and Traditions Trail, 87 km from Nocé;
- The Valleys and Mills Trail, 62 km from Rémalard;
- The Valleys and Fortified Farms Trail, 85 km from La Loupe;
- The Sites and Panoramas Tour, 106 km from Bellême;
- The Forests and Abbeys Tour, 80 km from Mortagne au Perche;
- The Perche Gouet Castles Tour, 97 km from Brou;
- The Castles and Lakes Tour, 82 km from Longny-au-Perche.
Discover the Perche by bike
‘Sur la voie des cadrants solaires’, for example, cycling loop no. 37 in the booklet L'Orne à Vélo. 27.5 km from Saint Langis-les-Mortagne (D+ 256 metres).
L'Orne à Vélo 48 itineraries from 10 to 70 km, with varying degrees of difficulty. Available free of charge from tourist offices.
